A walk to remember: Timeless Mughal magic

In 1608, Dhaka was made the capital of the vast eastern provinces of the mighty Mughal Empire, then at the zenith of its power. From then on, the term “Puran (Old) Dhaka” frequently appeared in the journals of Mughal generals. Within 100 years, it was transformed from a garrison town, into a flourishing, cosmopolitan city with a population of approximately 700,000, and an impressive 11-mile long waterfront.

Continuing its efforts to inject passion into heritage awareness, the Urban Study Group (USG), led by passionate architects Homaira Zaman and Taimur Islam, has 90 percent of Old Dhaka monuments and buildings surveyed and listed. For yet another flavour of the old town, one doesn't regret taking their Mughal Walk early on a Friday morning.

Across the long-reclaimed Dholaikhal, at the edge of Tanti Bazaar, the narrow streets lead to the Bongshal Talaab. Making an appearance in the 1908 version of the Cadastral Survey map, the roughly 100-year-old water tank is one of the few remaining in Dhaka and maintained by the community. It costs Tk 2 for an unlimited stay in the water, but a local panchayat member laments that sewage is leaking into the pond, killing the fish. The USG dreams of beautifying the area by relocating the surrounding timber merchants (kathpatti), transforming the area with a pedestrian zone and cafes.

Totally modified buildings seem to be the norm in Kasaituli (butcher's market), the next maholla (neighbourhood), but within the concrete jungle, the Kasaituli Jaam-e mosque stands out like a dull jewel. The 125-year-old edifice is known for its intricate chini tikri mosaics and boasts unique enamel work. While the façade is well preserved, some older portions were compromised when the interior was recently renovated, the main chamber too perfectly remodelled.

Homaira explained, “Tiles are now used for the mosaic, obliterating the 3D effect of the original chini tikri. The old imperfections are gone; the new surfaces appear flattened.” Although built much later, the mosque displays typical Mughal period features, including a fluted dome sitting on an octagonal drum, flanked by two smaller side domes. Characteristic cusp arches divide the inner chamber into three. Several octagonal turrets are topped off with carved finials. Residents throw buckets of water against the outer walls to remove the dust, revealing amazing floral patterns in cobalt blue, emerald green, red and gold, glinting in the sunlight.

Turn back as you walk on to Mahut-tuli to see the enormity of challenges the USG faces in the form of haphazard new construction. On the border of what used to be the elephant keepers' neighbourhood and the old Armenian quarter Armanitola, lies the Star Mosque, its large central and two lateral domes, as the name implies, covered in blue stars. Said to have been built in the early 19th century, a substantial veranda was added about 80 years ago. Pretty Japanese floral tiles, some of them identical to those seen in Tanti Bazaar houses, were added at that time. The use of architectural ceramics became popular in Dhaka in the 1870s; today the insides of thermos flasks are used to create a modern version of chini tikri. In the 1980s, two further domes, one large and one small, were built as part of a northern extension, destroying the centrality of the Mughal-style mosque. The original main dome rests on the drum of a so-called half dome, typical of a genre of Mughal mosque architecture in Bengal.

Next door is the red-bricked Armanitola Boys' School, in 1904 Raj-style architecture. It was in the late 17th century that Armenian traders arrived and settled in Dhaka, gradually getting involved in politics, urban and social development. Affluent Armenian families built their own houses on marshy, reclaimed land, the jute industry flourishing under their beneficence in the mid 1800s.

On Noor Baksh Lane, clusters of houses with common courtyards can be seen, a regular feature of Dhaka's Muslim neighbourhoods. Among these lies landowner Abul Hasnat's 120-year-old mansion, with stained glass rose windows and wooden beamed ceilings, where two branches of his descendants still reside. From the swords displayed on the walls to the ornate, carved furniture, the once-upon-a-time grace of the house can be imagined.

Of the few remaining Mughal period structures is the 250-year-old Taqui House, once belonging to Syed Taqui Mohammed of Mughal elite lineage. The multi-cusp arched building serves as Mohammadi Begum's Imambara (Shia shrine), where the local Ashura (Muharram mourning) procession begins. Unlike other parts of Old Dhaka, Taimur and Homaira don't need to persuade the owners to preserve the houses here; happily, the awareness to save some part of the past lies ingrained in these old-world families.

Then quickly pass through Maulvi Bazaar, built on the untraceable ruins of Mukim Katra caravanserai, constructed in the 1600s, into further caravanserai territory. Built in 1644 during the Mughal glory days, for Shah Jahan's son Shah Shuja, Subedar (Governor) of Bengal, the highlight of the trip is the Bara Katra. Ensconced in a jumble of buildings, it could easily be missed. The South Gate is quietly imposing and only two of the four turrets remain. “It's comparable to many of the structures that were built in Delhi or Agra during Shah Jahan's time,” Taimur is pleased to add. Local merchants have set up shop in the cavernous side rooms that were once used for goods storage.

Through the gatehouse, walkers are able to pass under the dome, a steep, jagged climb to the very top for a view of the Buriganga in the distance. Seeing that heritage conservation was a sensitive issue, the USG organised an art exhibition at a local school, which helped building bridges all around. Leaving via the Jail Gate, back out to colourful Chawk Bazaar, the largest fresh produce market in town, the walk is over after four hours. Endless permutations of the route are possible; email usg.dhaka@gmail.com for more information.

The writer is a freelance contributor

Picture: http://www.thedailystar.net/photo/2009/05/30/2009-05-30__a02.jpg

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